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| All's
fair in love and war in Keelung |
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Date:
February 5, 2003
Publication: The China Post
Being a port city nestled between cliffs and mountains,
there exist an interesting mix of remnants of once-strategic
forts and peaceful natural settings where visitors can
relax to breathtaking views of the East China Sea.
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A
good place for such an outing lies just to the northwest
of Keelung. There, the greatest of contrasts exists as
Lover's Lake lies right beside perhaps one of the more
important historical military relics in the area, the
Ta Wu-lun Battery. A short hike between the two points
of interest can make for a pleasant excursion before heading
back into the city of Keelung.
If you are in a peaceful mood, you can go to Lover's Lake
first for a walk around the narrow, u-shaped lake. I was
lucky enough to go there on a relatively gray, drizzling
day so I escaped the running into hoards of picnicking
families. |
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The
area around the lake is well-maintained with a paved footpath
which encircles it, complete with a suspension bridge
to allow for a shortcut to the other side. On this day
in a lakeside pavilion, a couple was playing cards despite
the cold. Maybe they were playing the game called "Hearts".
A
short trek up the hill will bring you to the Ta Wu-lun
Battery, which looks out onto the sea. Once there, visitors
can pretend they are soldiers as they keenly observe the
ocean below for imaginary naval invaders from foreign
lands.
The
remnants consist of a fort built originally in 1880 by
the then-Manchu rulers who sought to defend the island
against foreign invasions.
Most
of the action the fort saw during that period came in
the form of several attacks by British naval forces, which
were less successful than their French counterparts who
did gain a foothold via the eastern side of Keelung at
another nearby fort, the Er Sha-wan Battery.
The
fort is a mix of slightly rebuilt and decaying buildings,
with much of it being renovated during the Japanese occupation.
After rambling around the barracks where troops and other
instruments of war were housed, you can walk up to the
outlook from which the canons once defended Taiwan's population
from sea attack.
The
view is spectacular and as the weather is often gray and
windy on the northeast coast, one can see the dark clouds
over the sea roll inward, edging closer to the coast like
those warships did over a century ago.
Whether
you were moved by the wartime nostalgia or by the romantic
feelings from the lake, it is recommended you return to
Keelung to cleanse yourself spiritually with a visit to
one of northern Taiwan's more historic temples, made famous
due to a lively night market, appropriately called Miaokou,
located at its entrance.
Although
it was only late afternoon, when I ventured into the night
market the area was already abuzz with shoppers scouting
for deals to be had and snacks to be eaten.
What
makes this night market special is that it has managed
to keep its untamed feeling, unlike many other shopping
areas which have been refurbished, homogenized or relocated
to large parking lots.
Miaokou
offers visitors a chance to experience the kind of night
market that in the past invaded whole sections of a city,
oozing down its streets and alleys. At Miaokou, the streets
are packed tightly with throngs of bargain hunters, who
take breaks from shopping to feast upon the many kinds
of traditional snacks that have made this particular night
market famous, especially the servings of slabs of pork
accompanied by minced shrimp in a thick broth to wash
it down.
The
expedition to Keelung and surrounding scenic spots, although
less than an hour away from Taipei, offers visitors a
chance to travel back in time. The city's glory as either
a military outpost or a once-bustling port still clearly
lingers and gives it the character it has today.
Having
invaded the city not by sea from the northeast as those
foreign warriors once did, but instead by land from the
southeast, I returned home to Taipei feeling victorious
in having conquered the area with my camera.
View
the original story online at the China Post |
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